Gruff Brewing opened in 2016 to the delight of beer enthusiasts all over Whatcom County. The lively taproom and straightforward space have won the hearts of many since then, their focus on brewing a wide variety of brews and beers, while food flowed on the side via local food trucks & eateries.
Now, though, Gruff has expanded their craft to the kitchen. With the help of Chef Kai Despain, who’s been at the helm since the kitchen opened at the end of 2023, their delicious menu items have become just as sought-after as their quality brews.
The Japanese-inspired pub cuisine is relatively cheap, but unique in its style and flavor—similar to small bites you’d see at a Japanese izakaya. Big ticket items revolve around crispy cutlets and katsu and are complemented by a variety of sizzling sides and fresh vegetables. Despain does his best to incorporate local ingredients from the greater Whatcom area, and to maintain viable options for individuals with dietary restrictions.
Photograph by Ellie Coberly
Many menu items are vegan or vegetarian or can be customized accordingly. One of the two fryers in the kitchen is kept gluten-free for anyone who is allergic. Gruff is for everybody.
“We’ve had more and more people coming into Gruff as a food spot, not even coming for the beer,” Despain says. “I see everybody from every walk of life, any demographic that you could possibly define in Bellingham. I see people sitting down for hours by themselves, studying or reading—no matter how loud the music is, no matter how crazy it is in here, people find a spot.” As we move into summer, business is picking up for the kitchen, and Despain is putting everything he has into Gruff. Aside from being stoked on food, Despain is really appreciative of his staff. He highlights that they truly love the place, and the food, and it shows in the final product.
Despite opening relatively recently, Gruff’s kitchen is refined and tapped in. The workspace is relatively small, but the dishes go out with a bang. The menu is large and ranges from small bites to big bites and dessert. One top seller is the Karaage Chicken, with a fried chicken breast that melts in your mouth, highlighted by a creamy and bright sriracha aioli. Vegetable options like the sautéed Brussel Sprouts and Edamame are exquisitely flavored, and the crunchy watermelon radish in the Leafy Greens will tickle any melon-lover’s fancy.
Above all, the Katsu Sando blew me away. The soft breaded chicken thigh paired well with a fresh bed of cabbage and rich curry sauce. The Tonkatsu Sando is a great pork alternative and Teriyaki Tofu Sando appeals to tofu lovers everywhere.
Furthering the idea of being a place for every person, Gruff’s food menu is surprisingly affordable, ranging from $6-$18 apiece at the time of writing. Every dish has a perfectly balanced flavor; nothing is too salty, spicy, or acidic. The indoor and outdoor space at Gruff is the epitome of inviting, with indoor seating, outdoor fire pits, and couches that entice customers to lounge and enjoy the atmosphere. 104 E. Maple St., Ste. 101, Bellingham, 360.739.3096, gruff-brewing.com
