Frelard Tamales began in 2015 at pop-ups and markets, then opened a walk-up window in 2018, sharing authentic Mexican meals with hungry Seattle crowds. Now, Owners Osbaldo Hernandez and Dennis Ramey are continuing their journey in Bellingham. Their new place in Sunnyland is the first sit-down location of Frelard Tamales, as well as the taproom and brewery for their new craft beer business, El Sueñito Brewing Company.
Husbands Hernandez and Ramey threw a truly grand opening weekend for their new venture in February 2023. The days-long party attracted over 1,900 folks to try their ½-pound tamales and the first batch of Sueñito brews. Ever since, they’ve been blown away by the demand.
“We thought we were going to be busy, but we didn’t think we were going to be this busy,” says Hernandez. “The amount of tamales we’re going through in Bellingham … is unreal.”
Frelard’s tamales are steamed inside corn husks and are made of masa (maize dough) stuffed with fillings.
Hernandez explained that tamales are a labor of love, taking five hours to make from scratch and an hour to steam for eating. Many of the ingredients that go into them are also slow-cooked foods, like chorizo. Frelard Tamales proudly cooks recipes provided by Hernandez’s mother, Evangelina Sahagun, so there’s no room for short-cuts.
I enjoyed this culinary craftsmanship when I tried the Chorizo and Cheese Tamale ($6.50). Inside the soft masa was their chorizo pork, made with Carlton Farms meat out of Oregon.
Photograph by Dean Davidson
The house-made chorizo sauce is chile guajillo based, with notes of vinegar and pepper, and I loved how moist and zingy the meat was. A thick layer of monterey jack provided a deliciously melty counterpart to the savory pork. It was served with mild green salsa, pickled veggies, and striped with crema.
Alongside my meal I had the Alemania Kolsch-style ale ($7), a smooth, balanced brew with a hint of citrusy sweet acidity and a lingering toasty back-end. El Sueñito’s opening portfolio of brews also featured an IPA, an American pale ale, a witbier, and a blonde ale. The brewery is a natural progression of Ramey’s passion for craft and home-brew beer, a way to grow business and chase a dream at once. They recently released their Alebrijes Mexican Lager, and hope to produce more lagers and light ales as they grow while maintaining a diverse selection. Ramey, who is the Head Brewer at El Sueñito, also wants to start focusing on pulling in flavors from the kitchen, like their Horchata Milk Stout collaboration with Kulshan last year.
Of course, El Sueñito and Frelard Tamales offer more than just beer and tamales. Their menu includes tacos, sides like refried beans and Mexican rice, tres leches cake (one of my favorite desserts of all time), tequila and mezcal cocktails, and house-made agua fresca. They also hope to build connections through community events, like a weekly running club (@suenitorunclub on Instagram) and a Pride event in June and educate on Mexican culture with events for Cinco de Mayo and Dia de los Muertos.
“We feel very welcomed and very embraced by the community,” says Ramey. “When we opened that was a big mission statement for us, being a place for the community to come together, to experience Mexican culture and traditions, and to feel welcomed.”
“Being the first Mexican- and gay-owned brewery in Washington State, we will always be proud of our intersectional identities,” adds Hernandez. “We want to create a space for everyone in our community to gather and celebrate each other, including members of the queer and BIPOC community that might not have felt embraced by the beer industry before. We see you and we welcome you.” 1926 Humboldt St., Bellingham, elsuenitobrewing.com
