LEADER BLOCK WINE Company & Eatery closed for renovations in July 2022, but what opened in September was something entirely new—The Leader Block Trattoria & Bar.
“A trattoria is a gathering place. It’s where you eat, where you drink, where you get together,” says Roberto Trendel, the new co-owner and general manager of Leader Block. Trendel was brought in by Owner Robert Pinkley to help invigorate the business, and he put his 25 years of Italian eatery experience right to work.
Previously more of an American-Italian blend, the thesis of Leader Block has shifted to authentic Northern Italian. They marry location and inspiration, and aim to serve traditional Italian dishes “polished with PNW accoutrements.” Tons of ingredients are locally sourced, including meats, fish, vegetables, and products from Avenue Bread, Bellingham Pasta, Ferndale Farmstead, and Edaleen Dairy. Executive Chef Doug Elliot has been on-board throughout the entire process, and the recipes were tweaked repeatedly to achieve their full potential.
When I visited Leader Block Trattoria & Bar, I was greeted with the enthusiastic hospitality one might expect in a traditional Italian atmosphere. Off their all-new specialty cocktail menu, I chose the Leader Block Bellini ($12), a dazzling Prosecco, chambord, and peach puree sipper. Leader Block also currently has around 500 wines on hand—ask to see the Captain’s List and the Worldwide Bottle Selection!
Photo by Cocoa Laney
An Italian fine-dining experience goes through all five menu sections, so we began with antipasto. The Cambozola ($18) was served on a large board for sharing, and featured a deliciously melty gorgonzola-brie cheese, a sweet and savory tomato chutney, and crostini generously topped with garlic confit.
Next from the zuppa e insalata options, I had the Bisquit di Granchio ($11 or $14), the crab bisque. It was thick and creamy, with succulent Dungeness crab, sherry that gave it a desired sharpness, and topped with cracked black pepper and Italian parsley. I cleansed my palette with the Insalata della Casa ($14), whose mild greens, fresh strawberries, and crumbles of blue cheese gave it everything you could want in a refreshing, bright salad.
For the primo course, I loved the Bucatini Carbonara ($32), which has sophisticatedly layered flavors. It features a silky sauce made with egg yolk, parmigiano, garlic, and pecan-smoked shoulder bacon. This is pasta to savor!
Moving on to secondo, I tried the Capasante ($42) and the Ossobucco ($45). Both of these were well worth the starring role as main dish, having depth of flavor and substance. Both came on beds of risotto that were extremely creamy, but very different in flavor.
Photo by Kristen Boehm
The Capasante risotto was made with Cascadia mushrooms and enough pepper to bite through the cream. It was topped by fresh scallops charred on both sides, and served with seared lemon asparagus. These ingredients and flavors melted perfectly together in every bite for a bright yet rich meal.
The Ossobucco, a house favorite, has a bed of risotto alla Milanese (cooked with saffron!) and was served with “the holy trinity” of Italian veggies: celery, carrot, and onion. A large veal shank was the meat of the meal, braised in a red wine demi glace until extremely tender and managing to be both savory and light in flavor. It made such an impression on me that I recommended this dish to another diner a few minutes later.
For dolce, I had a decadent Creme Brulee ($12) that was, of course, perfectly torched. There is also a traditional Tiramisu ($12), and both are topped with a dollop of toasted meringue, a delightful alternative to whipped cream.
Leader Block’s renovations go beyond the menu and include the dining areas, the bar, most of the staff, and even the point-of-sale system. They have a lot planned for 2023, including the initiation of a happy hour and the reinstatement of monthly wine dinners. Trendel’s ultimate goal is to give customers the best evening possible.
“All those factors combined make the ultimate dining experience,” he says. “We just want you to leave thinking, ‘That was the greatest dining experience we ever had.’”
2026 Main St., Ferndale, 360.306.8998
