I am not a golfer. It’s not that golf doesn’t appeal to me; I just could never quite summon the gumption to take a “swing” at it. Therefore, the Bistro at Shuksan might never have appeared on my radar, if it weren’t for writing this review. Now, I believe it should be on everybody’s.
The entrance at Bistro at Shuksan boasts high ceilings and classic white tablecloth settings. Beyond the doorway lies a spacious deck overlooking the sprawling golf course, perfect for enjoying a smooth sazerac on a warm, sunny day. To the right of the entrance is a sort of clubhouse bar, which is less formal in appearance and atmosphere. It is here that I meet Executive Chef Matthew Boudousquie.
Boudousquie is the culinary mastermind who has completely renovated Shuksan’s restaurant offerings, and is also the Food and Beverage Director for Shuksan Golf Club’s catering. Like most chefs, he is busy, but calm in demeanor and relaxing to talk to. A familial feeling is evident between him and other staff– one of the cooks even refers to him
affectionately as “Pop Pop”, while a server is promoted to lead right in front of me. Simultaneously at ease and ever
vigilant of the bistro’s operation, Boudousquie selects a few key dishes to give me the overall scope of his project.
The first option I’m presented with is Boudousquie’s signature namesake dish, Beets by Matthew ($15). Roasted beets are seated on skyr, an Icelandic form of yogurt. At their side are minced, locally sourced hazelnuts from Holmquist Orchards and fresh feta from Harmony Fields Farm. Resting atop and below the beets is fennel delivered three ways: pickled, fresh, and a sprinkle of fennel pollen. The balanced contrast between air and earth, light and dark, fresh and ferment absolutely sings on the palate. So much so, that I must admit the first bite actually brought a tear or two to my eyes.
What is a Southern meal without jambalaya? This Cajun Jambalaya ($19) stands deliciously firm in sticking to its Louisiana roots. Shrimp, andouille sausage, and chicken over rice combine perfectly with the holy trinity (for the unfamiliar, the holy trinity is a staple in Southern cooking, similar to a mirepoix except bell pepper is substituted for carrot.) Where Creole jambalaya is considered “wet” because of the addition of stewed tomatoes, its fiery Cajun cousin forgoes the extra liquid to deliver a spicier, protein-focused entree. Do not fear the heat, however- this dish is gentle enough to tickle your taste buds without burning your tongue.
Finally, I’m presented with something I have never seen or had before. Tasting the Braised Carlton Farm Pork Cheeks ($33) is (to put it mildly) a transformative dining experience. Braised in Bellingham Cider Company dry cider and glazed in Bowhill blueberry port, this dish absolutely falls off the fork. Celeriac root sourced from Boldly Grown Farm and Arcane Farm mushrooms accompany the tender pork cheeks, creating a meal that is at once both
exciting and familiar.
It is interesting to note that the entire menu is available gluten-free. Boudousquie himself deals with a gluten intolerance, and considers it a fun challenge to take any dish that would usually incorporate wheat and spin it into something deliciously gluten free. This includes the fried shrimp or the fried chicken for the sandwiches (though you’ll have to ask for gluten free bread for those.) Worry not– there is no sacrifice in flavor or texture, provoking reflection on just how far we have come with taking care of people with dietary restrictions in the kitchen.
In short, Boudousquie has leveraged his Southern roots and culinary know-how to transform the Bistro at Shuksan
into a local culinary powerhouse. A New Orleans native, he has drawn on his Louisiana upbringing to give us thoughtfully sourced dishes with striking flavor and incredible balance. He cites cooking with his grandmother as the primary inspiration, as she looks over her legacy from a framed photo on the bar. The combination of family ethos, dedication to regional sourcing, and innovation without reinventing the wheel converge to create an absolutely unforgettable dining experience.
1500 E. Axton Rd., Bellingham
360.398.8888,
www.shuksangolf.com/bistro
